Not only are the BIOS POST code definitions are cryptic and useless, the LED's are not readable at all. Did you understand what the problem is? I did not either. And it turned out to be useless.Īnother thing I constantly experience is the motherboard freezes and displays a POST message "b4 : USB device hot plug-in". I selected this one for the presence of Clear CMOS key only. I had two alternatives to choose from : MSI Gaming Carbon Pro or this one. But a Clear CMOS button is useless unless you can use it without opening your case, and some Asus motherboards do have them located on the back panel of motherboard - but god, they are expensive. I had read Ryzen had issues and deduced that I needed a CMOS Clear button to cope with frequent BIOS issues. After you install it on your case and close the side panels, they are useless. The On/Off button, CMOS clear button, OC button, restart button located at the top right and 7 segment POST LED display in bottom left are very helpful if you build assemble your motherboard by placing the CPU and RAM AND IF YOU POWER IT UP BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT ON YOUR CASE. I shut it down, wait for 5 minutes, then it starts to boot. When it freezes, it stays so, restarting does not help, shutting down and restarting does not help etc. You enter BIOS, click on a few arrow keys to move around it and baaamm. This damn thing freezes on logo screen or when you enter BIOS. The problem is this damn thing freezes and gets stuck on an undocumented BIOS POST code on every startup. Theroretically the Ryis supported with BIOS F3 ( original BIOS the motherboard came with), now I am running on latest BIOS F5 ( Agesa 1.0.0.4.a ) Theoretically, I should not have any reason to open the side panel of the case ever again. My SSD's + HDD's are connected through a 4-bay IcyDock 2.5" hot-swap HDD cage which I installed on a 5.25 drive bay on my case. It is connected to 850 watt Thermaltake PSU and housed in a Zalman Z12 Plus case. My CPU is Rywith stock (LED )cooler and RAM is 2 x Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR4 2400 ( it is on QVL list) and GPU is RX 460 4GB. I have Gaming 5 and do not recommend it at all. Again, at maximum system utilization, getting the GPU fully engaged for a longer duration requires all three monitors to be engaged and closely watching the power meter. Considering GPU power under full system load, the AX-370-Gaming 5 finally gets close to the Taichi’s result, but the Gaming K4 from ASRock still takes the cake. That delta increases to 9W when running Prime95 on all 16 threads on the 1700X. At idle, the lowest outlet power draw recorded from our Kill-a-Watt was 73.7W, which translates to a 5W delta between the samples. The Gigabyte AX-370-Gaming 5 employs a 6+4 regulator design, which competes with the 12+4 and 8+4 designs of the ASRock samples. All-in-all, the AX-370-Gaming 5 performs admirably against the two other samples, but the data reflects that the product trails by up to three percentage points in the gaming department. Regarding motherboard performance though, the Gigabyte AX-370-Gaming 5 shows similar results to the ASRock Gaming K4 sample at 1080p and matches the Taichi at the bezel-corrected 3460x1920 resolution. Ashes of the Singularity again thrashes this Ryzen 1700X and shows the CPU bottleneck that has plagued the Zen architecture.
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